Surviving Chamonix

Reentry complete. I’m back to work. Doesn’t feel like I was gone that long. The transition from ski bum to working stiff was strangely painless. But I profoundly miss the excitement I felt each morning waking up in my flat, looking out of one of the roof windows and peering straight up at the summit of Mt. Blanc, wondering what the day would bring. I’d make a quick trip down to my bakery for a chocolate croissant and baguette. The walk back ascended steeply to my flat with the Bossons icefall tumbling down directly above. It’s hard to believe people can live within a stone’s throw of such severe alpine topography. But there I was living and breathing it everyday. 

Not a day goes by when I don’t daydream about my time in Cham. What a magical place for a ski alpinist or any kind of mountain traveler, for that matter. In today’s climate of “extreme” sports and extreme everything, there’s no shortage of hype about gear and places. But Chamonix has been the original extreme since humans started exploring the high places. For the uninitiated it would be easy to think that Cham is just another victim of the mountain culture hype machine. But after spending 2 months immersed in the ski culture there I can say that it’s everything you’ve heard and more.

How could it be any other way? Chamonix is the perfect collision of unbelievable terrain, unparalleled access, rock quality and weather. Snow conditions aren’t always great but all the other factors make this easy to look beyond. I live in a region known for incredible mountains. But as I flew over the Chugach during my final leg of travel back home to Alaska, the terrain differences became instantly apparent. The greater Alaskan ranges, like the Alps, seem endless. We have big relief and large glaciers. But what sets the Alps apart from nearly every range in world is the incredible, nearly vertical granite that piles on top of every skiable feature. This creates significantly more vertical relief and steep ski lines than any other place I’ve been. Couple this with ridiculously easy access and you have Disneyland for alpinists. That is Chamonix.

For a ski mountaineer reading even a little about Chamonix, it’s easy to become intimidated. There are very few serious steep skiers with the means to travel who haven’t been scared in the Aiguille Rouge at some point in their careers. More than a few of those have died in the process. The late Hans Saari on the Gervasutti, 2001. photo: Kris EricksonThis should weigh heavily on the mind of anyone intending on testing him or herself there. But if you go to Cham with humility in mind and a sound assessment on your ability, the experience will be mind altering.

I traveled there alone with only a few email contacts in hand. I had a vague idea of the geography of the valley. I’d watched dozens of videos of skiing and climbing in the area. But I had no plan for how I was going to get oriented. Luckily, like often happens when I leave myself open to whims of chance while traveling, things started falling in place as soon as I arrived. My landlord and mountain photographer extraordinare, Rene Robert, offered a day tour orientation of the Vallee Blanche the next day. Rene has been in Chamonix most of his life and knows the range better than most. He helped set me on my way for things to come.

What follows here is my beta for anyone thinking about going to the area for any sort of mountain adventure. First of all, Cham isn’t necessarily for everyone. People looking for unspoiled terrain full of first anything possibilities will likely be frustrated there. Although new terrain is skied and climbed from time to time, the sheer volume of capable alpinists in the region almost ensure that, if you can think of it, it’s likely been done. That said, what HAS been done will blow your mind and, in spite of the numbers of climbers and skiers there each season, you can often have these incredible routes to yourself.

Getting There

This is simple. Fly to Geneva, Switzerland and grab one of the many vans available at the airport that will deliver you to your door anywhere in Vallee Chamonix-Mt. Blanc. Cham-Van, Chamexpress, AlpyBus, are all equivalent and all run about 28 to 35 Euros for the effort. No tip required. It’s handy to book on line and they’ll send you a confirmation text the day before. All drivers speak English.

One other option to check out for the more adventurous is BlahBlah Car. This is another internet-based operation where rated drivers look to share a ride to various places around Europe. You can get lucky here, as the rate is usually less than 10 Euros.

Language

Chamonix is a very international place. It’s filled with locals but also plenty of Brits, Scandies, Aussies, Americans, a few Italians (they have their own great mountains), a few Spaniards (same deal) and some Swiss wishing they were back in Switzerland. You don’t need to speak French to get by there.

Here’s the deal. The French love their language, just about to a fault. You can be the most polite, fluent Francophile and if your accent sucks you’ll still be corrected by your barely tolerant Frenchman. They simply can’t help themselves. In fact, after a while of doing my best speaking some simple phrases, I noticed that many simply continue the conversation in English rather than subject their ears to my pathetic linguistic insurgencies. I finally stopped trying and everyone seemed better off. A few polite greetings are all you need. Those are always welcome. 

Housing

This is the tricky part. I got really lucky finding the place that I did. A little insider info helped but luck was most of it. I contacted several acquaintances with knowledge of the scene there and all confirmed that housing could be a pain. For short trips, hotels are plentiful but expensive. Cham Share is another option. It’s like Craig’s List for Chamonix. Lot’s of stuff on there but a bit overwhelming. One option I think worth exploring is Air BNB. Several of my friends in Cham advertised rooms for rent and the nightly rate was around 35 Euros. Not bad. This usually gets you a place to crash, a bathroom and even a kitchen in some cases. I saw a couple of self contained units at similar prices. Whatever you decide, plan ahead for the best selection.

As far as where to be located, it’s pretty easy. Cham is small. The bus service is free during the winter. A bike is nice but not vital. But I think staying within a mile of the Aiguille du Midi tram station is handy. Stores and restaurants are close and the first bin will be easier to get when you rally.

Eats

Burgers at Elevation...too many to count.There are too many restaurants in Cham to count. I sampled a few but then fell into a rut of only a few known entities. I rarely went too fancy so it was usually a brasserie, burgers or Italian. Prices range from 7 Euros for a decent burger, 10 Euros for a big American or British style breakfast to 20 Euros for good Italian 2 course meals. Tipping is not expected but extra change is appreciated. I tried Chinese once and it was weak. The Indian option in Cham is Annapurna. I found it pretty good, authentic but expensive at 30 Euros for just me.

For après ski, Elevation 1904 is tops. The place defines Chamonix après ski culture. Reasonably friendly, often cute servers, good burgers, excellent frittes (fries), and ample beer (if you like the typical French blonde style Pelforth) can be found. Chambre Neuf across the street is an alternative when Elevation is mobbed and they have live music from time to time. Next door is Moo which also overflows with Elevation regulars. Which ever you chose, you’ll find yourself spending every afternoon sipping beers and listening to locals talking shit in a mix of French and English.

The view from your table doesn't suck.All of these establishments are directly across the street from the train depot so they’re hard to miss. The descent off the Vallee Blanche, whether via the James Bond piste in fat conditions or the Montenvers train later in the season dumps you just a couple of blocks from this hub of afternoon imbibing.

Cheap sammiesThe French don’t eat a big breakfast. A croissant or two and a cup of coffee will do. For Americans, finding the eggs and such that get us going in the morning is harder in Europe. My first pick for this sort of thing in Chamonix is Elevation. A variety of egg, sausage and bacon options exist for about 7 Euros. Top this off with a Café Grand Noir with or without crème and you’re set. If you really want to go big, the Full English will stop your heart in all the most delicious ways. Just don’t tell your cardiologist.

Learning to eat like a ChamoniardIf you’d rather eat in there are a few grocery options in the town center as well as numerous specialty shops for cheese, bread, sausage and wine. Spain produces excellent produce and veggies in the winter for the rest of Europe and you’ll find what you want in most stores. Apres at home is good, too.Go Euro and shop daily for the freshest of everything. Bring your own bag. Casino, Carrefour and SuperU all have what you need with the latter probably being the best selection. Organic is called Bio in France and you can find a pretty wide variety of this stuff if you desire.

One comment about coffee. In Europe, you're obliged to drink expresso, whether straight, cappuccino, au lait or longe. Just don't look for that bottomless cup of drip you're used to back home. Ain't gonna find it except at some hotels. But the coffee in France is generally mediocre. It's a shame. You can get a cafe anywhere but it often sucks. Not sure why. On the other hand, some of the best coffee in the world is in Italy, not too far away. The best coffee in Cham is in ItalyTruth be told, the best coffee in Chamonix is at 3,400 meters at the top of the Funavie Monte Bianco tram that comes up from Courmayer to Helbronner. Those guys in there know what they're doing. You get a little Italian attitude and a great cappuccino. The little hut there (Refugio Torino) is lovely. So, take the Midi to the top, ski down a bit to the Glacier du Geant and up to Pointe Helbronner, ski the 5,000 feet down to the tram (which is awesome) ride back up and indulge yourself. The Linzer torte is tasty, too. 

Gear

If you like gear then you’ll be a pig in shit in Chamonix. All the coolest stuff can be found there, whether it’s climbing gear or ski stuff. Cham is a little light on pure skimo race stuff but everything else is there. Dynastar, Black Crows, Rabbit on the Roof and Zagg are all local brands with devote followings. Grivel is just through the Mt. Blanc tunnel in Courmayer, Italia. Just try to control yourself.

The city center of Chamonix, which is a long, mostly pedestrian stretch of road, is lined with specialty gear stores. Patagonia, Mammut, Salomon, Millet and numerous others are all there. Snell is the big gear store with most of everything. Ravenel on the north end of town is the other option with a better selection of light and fast ski gear.

Skiing

The previous posts detail much of my experience in Cham and nearby Italy and just scratches the surface of what’s there, obviously. But an overview of what’s available is appropriate here.

The Aiguille du Midi tram dockFirst, buy some sort of Vallee pass while you’re there. It makes things so much easier. I bought a season pass in November for the early season discount of about 800 Euro and never regretted it. The lifts are pricey. One trip up the Midi is 45 Euro. That adds up. Taking the train down from Montenvers is something like 25 Euros. You have to pay for the trams in each direction. With a pass, you get it all. They have many options for shorter stays. Check the website.

Vallee du Chamonix-Mt. Blanc consists of a number of ski areas, some overlapping and all providing variety. Les Houches is furthest south and most tame. It’s about 5 km from town. Very sunny down there. Near the town center is, of course, the Aiguille du Midi tram. This gets you up above 3,700 meters and in the middle of some of the most amazing terrain in the world. No, really.

Brevent and Flegere from Grands MontetsAcross the valley on the sunny side and about 15 minutes walk from the Midi is Brevent. Lot’s of lifts including a gondola and tram access tons of good terrain, both groomed and not. Lots of corn to be found up there. Just north of Brevent, 5 minutes by bus is Flegere. Even more cool terrain up there.

Traveling by bus about 15 minutes north will take you out of Chamonix city proper and to the small village of Argentiere. Here you’ll find the jewel of Chamonix resort skiing – Grands Montets. Crap loads of terrain, much of it above tree line and on big glaciers. All the amenities you could want. The two stage tram here will take you to 3,200 meters and the jumping off point for the Haute Route, the Argentiere glacier, Les Courtes, Les Droites and Aiguille Verte among other iconic features. The only downside is that the tram lines at the mid station tend to be long (about an hour on weekends).

A little further up valley is Le Tour. I don’t know much about the skiing there, as I never ventured that far. And, finally, even further north and technically out of the valley is Vallorcine. This is far away from the glam of Chamonix but seems like a cool, sleepy little area to check out sometime. Big terrain access lies above.

Even in France this is funnyOne last comment regarding ski gear etiquette. You can ski on anything in Cham and wear just about anything and no one will give you a second look. The French get it, whatever it is you’re doing. Mono ski, fat ski, touring ski, alpine, tech, skimo race stuff, snowboard…. doesn’t matter. They do it all and have seen it all. Fat and baggy or Lycra race suit. You’ll see both on any given tram depending on the day. Bright colors are favored.

Geared up and ready for apres skiBut one thing you’ll see on nearly everyone skiing on the glaciers is a few pieces of gear. Honestly, after skiing alone 70% of my time on these big glaciers, it seems overkill but most skiers carry a few pieces of kit. It goes like this. Put on your harness before you leave the station. Clip to it a longish ice screw. Have a couple of lockers, a cordelette, a couple of slings, a few free ‘biners, a pulley and maybe a prussik or some other ascending device. On or in your pack should be some sort of ice tool and crampons. The truly prepared have a 30-meter section of 9mm rope in their packs. All this is in addition to your usual beacon, shovel and probe.

Almost no one skis roped together so if you fall into a crack you’re probably screwed anyway. But having this stuff ready might make you handy if you come upon some unfortunate party with a problem. I would venture that many of the casual skiers you see all kitted out with this stuff don’t know the first thing about how to use it. You get points for having this stuff and at least looking prepared but then lose points for still having it on when you sit down for après at Elevation. Put it in your pack, Slappy!

So, there you have it. The Clif Notes to my inside scoop on Chamonix. It’s certainly more than I had when I went. Remember, it’s just my take on a two-month exposure. Certainly not the end all of advice but it might get you up to speed faster than me and get you enjoying the place sooner. Bonne chance!

Comments

[Trent]

This is an excessively generous post. Thank you for all the beta!

[Brian]

I'm glad you think so, Trent. Hope you get there and make use of it. You'll have no regrets.

[James]

Gear up, because there are a lot of gapers in Cham. 70% by yourself sucks, no French gals?

[Brian]

Yeah James. This old man doesn't have much game, I guess, and I'm not one for the club scene. Boring, I know. I still managed some great times with locals and transplant locals and am thankful for their generosity and patience. And to that visits by friends and I was pretty good most of the time.